hautepop

digital culture and social media and privacy & security and social theory and urbanism and architecture and fashion and anthropology and politics and research

Early ideas tend to have disproportionate influence over the rest of the conversation. They establish the kinds of norms, or cement the idea of what are appropriate examples or potential solutions for the problem.

Loran Nordgren. Kellogg School. “Brainstorming Doesn’t Work; Try This Technique Instead

When doing any group discussion, it’s vital to give everyone the opportunity to capture their own experience, in their own language, prior to sharing. This is a part of how I work that often frustrates client - for it means that there are portions of the group or interview where the only person talking is me. This can feel like a waste, but this insight dates back to the Asch conformity studies from the 60s or 70s.  There’s great video here.

(via peterspear)

Particularly good advice.

I tried to do this while a teaching assistant on an undergrad geography course - despite not knowing more about group facilitation than I’d read in a few blog articles - mostly just to get more contributions. It can be hard to get people to speak up in seminars, and so I wanted to make sure that every single person had a thought ready before I asked them to share. It also gives shyer or more introverted people more time to gather their thoughts before speaking.

But it’s interesting & useful to think of this in terms of not just getting more contributions, but getting a better debate overall - because norms aren’t set too early, and therefore a wider range of ideas can be considered by the group.

Pretty cool. One for all us researchers to makes sure we build into our methods, of course.

Energy Addicts by Naomi Kizhner

An invasive jewellery collection that converts kinetic energy from the body’s involuntary movements into electricity.

How can we as human bodies become a natural resource?

From Dezeen:

Naomi Kizhner designed the Energy Addicts accessories in response to the world’s impending energy crisis, looking for an existing energy source that is yet to be tapped in to.

"It interested me to imagine what would the world be like once it has experienced a steep decline in energy resources and how we will feed our energy addiction," Kizhner told Dezeen. "There are lots of developments of renewable energy resources, but the human body is a natural resource for energy that is constantly renewed, as long as we are alive."

"I wanted to explore the post-humanistic approach that sees the human body as a resource," she added.

The pieces would be embedded into the surface of the skin to capture the energy of subconscious movements, such as the flow of blood through the veins and blinking, transforming it into a useable energy resource.

Read more at Dezeen
Artist’s website: NaomiKizhiner.com (video, but text in Hebrew)

Six Degrees Of Health Goth

So I took my hand-sketched semantic network map from yesterday and did it again, properly.

Method:

1. Start at health goth, and look at the 3 related topics that Tumblr gives you. Write these down as sets of pairs:

health goth - street goth
health goth - seapunk
health goth - vaporwave

3. Ladder up from the 3 related topics, looking at each of their related topics. Do this process 6 times, building a list of pairs.

4. Import the dataset as a .csv file into Gephi as a list of directed edges.

5. Force Atlas 2 layout, weight node size by in-degree, and node colour by modularity. 

6. Tweak node colour a bit manually so the different communities show up better.

Network properties:

Working assumption: Tumblr’s related tags are based on tags co-occuring in the same post. Consequently it’s based on user behaviour (not say hand of mod), and we can look at how tags are connected as a proxy for how Tumblr users think these ideas & concepts are related.

The relationships between tags loop round and keep interconnecting:health goth —> seapunk —> grunge —> vintage —> retro —> hipster —> girl —> women’s fashion —> chic —> korea —> women’s fashion

Where a group of tags keep linking into each other - e.g. one around women’s fashion, chic, street style, korea, china and girl - that forms a community (in network terms). The modularity algorithm can detect which groups of tags are most closely linked like this.

Interesting findings:

1. 79 tags are within 6 degrees of health goth. Given that each tag has 3 related tags, that shows there’s a lot of interconnection between them (we could potentially be dealing with I think 364 tags: 3^0+3^1+3^2+3^3+3^4+3^5).

2. Health goth itself has in-degree of zero, aka none of the tags it links out to ever link back to it. This suggests it’s a small subculture

3. Vaporwave has the highest in-degree, of 6. Now, this is partly because it’s close to our starting point so it has more opportunity to gain “ins” - but moreso because it’s the hub for a number of different design/art aesthetics: net art, web art, webpunk, seapunk, the word ‘aesthetic’ and of course health goth itself.

4. HBA links round to itself - ok strictly speaking hba links to hood by air, but I aggregated the two to get a nice loop :0

5. Korea and China are huge tags around women’s fashion and chic. This is massively interesting. I’m seeing it around streetwear and street goth too, though it doesn’t show up in this map. As a teenager I grew up on the FRUiTS magazine books of streetstyle from Tokyo… But it’s now looking like Seoul’s stolen Harajuku’s thunder.

6. Women’s fashion is correctly punctuated, but mens fashion, mens clothing and mens style are not.

Six Degrees Of Health Goth

So I took my hand-sketched semantic network map from yesterday and did it again, properly.

Method:

1. Start at health goth, and look at the 3 related topics that Tumblr gives you. Write these down as sets of pairs:

health goth - street goth
health goth - seapunk
health goth - vaporwave

3. Ladder up from the 3 related topics, looking at each of their related topics. Do this process 6 times, building a list of pairs.

4. Import the dataset as a .csv file into Gephi as a list of directed edges.

5. Force Atlas 2 layout, weight node size by in-degree, and node colour by modularity.

6. Tweak node colour a bit manually so the different communities show up better.


Network properties:

Working assumption: Tumblr’s related tags are based on tags co-occuring in the same post. Consequently it’s based on user behaviour (not say hand of mod), and we can look at how tags are connected as a proxy for how Tumblr users think these ideas & concepts are related.

The relationships between tags loop round and keep interconnecting:
health goth —> seapunk —> grunge —> vintage —> retro —> hipster —> girl —> women’s fashion —> chic —> korea —> women’s fashion

Where a group of tags keep linking into each other - e.g. one around women’s fashion, chic, street style, korea, china and girl - that forms a community (in network terms). The modularity algorithm can detect which groups of tags are most closely linked like this.


Interesting findings:

1. 79 tags are within 6 degrees of health goth. Given that each tag has 3 related tags, that shows there’s a lot of interconnection between them (we could potentially be dealing with I think 364 tags: 3^0+3^1+3^2+3^3+3^4+3^5).

2. Health goth itself has in-degree of zero, aka none of the tags it links out to ever link back to it. This suggests it’s a small subculture

3. Vaporwave has the highest in-degree, of 6. Now, this is partly because it’s close to our starting point so it has more opportunity to gain “ins” - but moreso because it’s the hub for a number of different design/art aesthetics: net art, web art, webpunk, seapunk, the word ‘aesthetic’ and of course health goth itself.

4. HBA links round to itself - ok strictly speaking hba links to hood by air, but I aggregated the two to get a nice loop :0

5. Korea and China are huge tags around women’s fashion and chic. This is massively interesting. I’m seeing it around streetwear and street goth too, though it doesn’t show up in this map. As a teenager I grew up on the FRUiTS magazine books of streetstyle from Tokyo… But it’s now looking like Seoul’s stolen Harajuku’s thunder.

6. Women’s fashion is correctly punctuated, but mens fashion, mens clothing and mens style are not.

Aww damn I’ve ruined it!

So my network mapping post of course included both terms “health goth” and “street goth”, as they were the two originary tags I laddered out from.

And then my post got 60 reblogs and shows up in the ‘most popular’  under the health goth tag… 

…And so of course I’ve inadvertently nuked my dataset and my ability to reproduce the dataset. Shit! I was going to redraw it in Gephi…

Aww damn I’ve ruined it!

So my network mapping post of course included both terms “health goth” and “street goth”, as they were the two originary tags I laddered out from.

And then my post got 60 reblogs and shows up in the ‘most popular’ under the health goth tag

…And so of course I’ve inadvertently nuked my dataset and my ability to reproduce the dataset. Shit! I was going to redraw it in Gephi…

jrichmanesq:

minimoonstar:

hautepop:

Anatomy of A Tumblr Trend part 2: the semantic network map

So Tumblr’s got this cool feature where, if you search for a tag, it gives you 3 related tags that are (presumably) most commonly used in combination with your search term.

So I searched for the 2 Tumblr trends I’m currently interested in - street goth and health goth - and followed these links to see what they connected to. This creates a kind of semantic network, a way to diagram how people on Tumblr link different style subcultures, based on the top three most-associated terms neighbouring each term.

[…]

This is all super-interesting and worth the click-thru, but that “(presumably)” is an awful big one — the entire piece hinges on that presumption being correct. Anyone know if that’s actually true?

Good question.

I wrote that because it seemed pretty obvious from how the feature was working - and how I see people in these communities using tags, something I’m studying carefully as someone trying to grow a Tumblr in that space myself. It makes sense as an architecture - otherwise, where would these related tags come from? They’re a bit too uneven - and there are just too many different tags - to be hand-curated. And “related tags” are clearly different from the “predictive tags” you get suggested as you enter a tag, which are all variants beginning with the characters you’ve already entered. So let’s say it was an informed guess.

But you’re right, it’s worth checking out properly. Unfortunately I can find nothing 100% definitive online - Tumblr’s not a very heavily documented site. This January 2013 presentation from Tumblr’s Director of Search Yufei Pan is the closest I can get - it lists new features developed including “Related search” and then has two words, “tag co-occurrence” (slide 5). On Slide 10, Search Architecture, we see the existence of something called a Related Tag Index.

We also know that until the October 2013 search update, only the first 5 tags in a Tumblr post were indexed (i.e. searchable).

So it seems likely that there’s a tag database which records which tags co-occur in a post, and that this dataset used to be restricted to the first 5 tags on a post, but in October 2013 Tumblr updated their database technologies and were then on able to index all of it. And it’s that co-occurrence marker which produces this “related tags” recommendation.

It’s not utter certainty but a best guess - but that’s good enough for what I’m doing here. This is a Tumblr, not a blog - I’m not publishing on Medium, or even a Wordpress. I scribbled this network diagram out in 30 minutes after work (and actually forgot 3 arrows - health goth to vaporwave, street goth to Pyrex, and HBA to itself, Hood By Air. Consider it an experiment, a first draft - just playing around to see if something was there.

Let’s page Andrea Lopez (bluechoochoo) who is the utter boss at this sort of stuff. (And unwrapping.tumblr.com may know too…)

Fun find: "related tags" is itself a tag on Tumblr - people use it to share amusing related tag combinations they’ve seen.

Health goth breakfast, right? Caffeine, protein, vitamins - no chewing. Clean. Modern. Efficient.
#future #healthgoth #ihavebecomeaparodyofmyself #ohwell

Health goth breakfast, right? Caffeine, protein, vitamins - no chewing. Clean. Modern. Efficient.
#future #healthgoth #ihavebecomeaparodyofmyself #ohwell

interdome:

hautepop:

Anatomy of A Tumblr Trend part 2: the semantic network map

So Tumblr’s got this cool feature where, if you search for a tag, it gives you 3 related tags that are (presumably) most commonly used in combination with your search term.

So I searched for the 2 Tumblr trends I’m currently interested in - street goth and health goth - and followed these links to see what they connected to. This creates a kind of semantic network, a way to diagram how people on Tumblr link different style subcultures, based on the top three most-associated terms neighbouring each term.

The result: my crude map above, scribbled on a piece of paper.

The interesting thing: street goth and health goth aren’t connected.

They link only at the second degree, through “fashion” - which is supergeneric. People aren’t connecting the two terms any more closely.

Instead they split off with their own sets of associations. Health goth gets associated with normcore (K-HOLE’s term that’s been bizarrely adopted by mainstream fashion) and seapunk, the Tumblr trend that broke out into brief celebrity with Rihanna et al last year. This then links up to a much more visually-oriented (i.e. non-fashion) set of concepts - vaporwave, pale - ending up at net art and web art.

Meanwhile street goth is all about Hood By Air and Pyrex (labels), then “blvck”, streetwear, then trill, dope & other street slang.

So it looks like we’ve got here is two separate communities.

What separates them? Funnily enough for two monochrome aesthetics, it’s kind of black and white.

While both tags are a long way from monoethnic, street goth connects into hiphop streetwear culture which draws most directly from black culture. Whereas terms around health goth - normcore, hipster, grunge - are much whiter.

That’s really interesting.

*

(What the hell is streetgoth? Read my first Anatomy of a Tumblr Trend post here. For health goth, the source, a somewhat pretentious essay.)

Wonder if there is a hidden dimension of “people who know odd sub-genres titles and tend to tag”? Seems like Tumblr tags are like a social network within a network… those who tag, tag heavily, early, often, and are part of making the name a “thing”, before it is. Thinking about “pale” in particular. #pale doesn’t mean pale, it means #pale, and people using it as a tag are using it in the #pale sense. So maybe #pale and #goth have more in common via the #, than the fact that goth’s may or may not be actually pale?

Thinking about how #over #hashtagging #on #Twitter ruins the discursive value of the tag. But on Tumblr, the tag is like an extra feature that only really exists if it is deployed within the commonly accepted currency of particular tags, e.g. #pale #normcore #vaporwave, etc.

Tags as a “social network within a network” - yes!

Lots of things going on - as Adam interdome says, using tags (and blog names) to create a trend as I’m almost certain health goth did.

Using tags to gain visibility and followers, of course - if a trend starts in a forest and no-one hears it, is it really a trend?

And a bit of a fluency & boundary-keeping role for tags too. Tags as places to display cultural competency (these ones go together) plus wit, irony and more cultural competency through their metacommentary function.

I’ve not seen anyone take the puss out of someone else for getting tags wrong - not least because they don’t copy over when you reblog. But I do know that getting tags right matters…

Anatomy of A Tumblr Trend part 2: the semantic network map

So Tumblr’s got this cool feature where, if you search for a tag, it gives you 3 related tags that are (presumably) most commonly used in combination with your search term.

So I searched for the 2 Tumblr trends I’m currently interested in - street goth and health goth - and followed these links to see what they connected to. This creates a kind of semantic network, a way to diagram how people on Tumblr link different style subcultures, based on the top three most-associated terms neighbouring each term.

The result: my crude map above, scribbled on a piece of paper.

The interesting thing: street goth and health goth aren’t connected.

They link only at the second degree, through “fashion” - which is supergeneric. People aren’t connecting the two terms any more closely.

Instead they split off with their own sets of associations. Health goth gets associated with normcore (K-HOLE’s term that’s been bizarrely adopted by mainstream fashion) and seapunk, the Tumblr trend that broke out into brief celebrity with Rihanna et al last year. This then links up to a much more visually-oriented (i.e. non-fashion) set of concepts - vaporwave, pale - ending up at net art and web art.

Meanwhile street goth is all about Hood By Air and Pyrex (labels), then “blvck”, streetwear, then trill, dope & other street slang.

So it looks like we’ve got here is two separate communities.

What separates them? Funnily enough for two monochrome aesthetics, it’s kind of black and white.

While both tags are a long way from monoethnic, street goth connects into hiphop streetwear culture which draws most directly from black culture. Whereas terms around health goth - normcore, hipster, grunge - are much whiter.

That’s really interesting.

*

(What the hell is streetgoth? Read my first Anatomy of a Tumblr Trend post here. For health goth, the source, a somewhat pretentious essay.)

Anatomy of a Trend: A Street Goth Timeline

First post in a series I’ve got planned on Tumblr trends, coming via my style blog street-goth:

Previously: GHE20G0TH1K (2011), goth ninja (perennial)

Subsequently: health goth (late 2013, 2014)

*

Street goth born: July 2012

#7 in Complex.com’s 10 Best Trends of 2012 So Far

The trend has gained more popularity as of late with avant-garde designers like Rick Owens and Raf Simons leading the way. It consists of mostly black, minimalistic and raw-edged items. Often, you’ll see a sick drapey jacket here and there. This year, we’ve seen celebrities like Tyson Chandler adopt the trend.”

However it’s pretty rare to find the term outside Complex magazine or references to it.

*

Became visible to Google Trends: January 2013

*

First part of 2013, blogs like Complex.com and KreepNYC.com are posting the what-is and how-to type posts:

10 Jan 2013: Clothes Get Weirder: What is Street Goth? (Complex.com)

14 Jan 2013: High Snobiety takes a closer look  - with the best definition so far: “In short, the style consists of dark, minimalist clothing cut in modern ways and finished with premium materials like leather” 

29 May 2013: 10 Signs You Are a Street Goth (Complex.com)

27 June 2013: Street Goth Style For Beginners (KreepNYC)

*

Defined on Urban Dictionary: 19 June 2013

A fashion and music trend in the hip hop community that steals the term ‘goth’ in order to look edgy, and yet hasn’t a clue as to what the original goth subculture is about.
I’m exactly the same as any other hip hop fan but dress in black and call myself a ‘street goth’ because everybody knows that being a ‘goth’ means that you’re dark and dangerous.”
by Jaded Goth June 19, 2013 “
The canon, as defined (and/or overexposed) by end 2013:
Celebrities: A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Tyson Chandler, Pusha T.
High fashion: Rick Owens, Ricardo Tisci, Raf Simons, Alexander Wang.
Labels: Hood By Air, Pyrex, En Noir leathers, Nike Air Force 1s.
*

Current big Tumblrs in this space 
(Whether or not they’d call themselves street goth, these are the monochrome streetwear blogs getting the most reblogs)
*
Where now, eight months later? Well, that’s the question - there’s no definitive answer. But I’m seeing a few things currently going on:
More white. More transparency and layering (influences from techwear). More high fashion influences, like Comme des Garcons & Martin Margiela. A move into more general high-end streetwear, as people like trillaparade suggest here (as the streetwear types move out of their all-black phase). Working out what streetgoth womenswear might mean.
So I may be kinda late to the party on Tumblr, but there’s still shit to be playing around with ;)

street-goth:

Susie Lau, fashion blogger extraordinaire, talks streetwear:

Moving Still
5 August 2014

There’s a growing wave of excitement around a ‘new guard’ of high end streetwear designers:

Say what you want.  Like it or hate it.  Call it hyped up bullshit.  But if you’re ignoring what a collective wave of designers like Shayne Oliver at Hood by Air, Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan and now Virgil Abloh’s Off-White is, as a cultural comment on the state of fashion today, then you’re sort of missing the point.  Business of Fashion recently called these trio of designers “Streetwear’s New Guard” much to the predictable umbrage of “for real” streetwear aficionados, who felt that these brands hadn’t been around long enough to earn the label of the much-vaulted name of streetwear. 

Rather than referring to it as a new guard, it might be better to give this off-shoot a new term of categorisation. […] We should look at these brands and think about what they’re contributing to the present rather than their value in the future.  And at present, the bottom line is, people are drawn to them in a big way – in numbers, in levels of interaction and in a showing of appreciation and loyalty when supposedly we’re in a fashion landscape where people are fickle about their choices, mixing and matching […]

I think of the way a whole posse of people turn up wearing Hood by Air t-shirts and sweatshirts at their shows, united as thought they were diehard followers of a football team.  As a physical entity they looked like a proper style tribe – as solid as the groups of visual-kei fans in Tokyo.  I look at Abloh’s instagram and you have people pleading with him to make bigger sizes because..”I was barely able to get Pyrex and this vision is so much more focused. So defined. BREAKING THROUGH SHIT. Don’t deny me a consumer the opportunity to be a part of the movement because I don’t wear a small or medium.“  Movement.  Break-through.  Those are big words to be throwing around in the age of a the fair-weather fashion consumer.

What’s Tumblr got to do with it? 

When I spoke to Abloh, he used Tumblr as a reference over and over again – it almost became like an adjective to define a generation of people he feels are likely to understand what he is doing with Off-White.  “If you squint your eyes at it, it might just look like streetwear,” said Abloh. “Clothes with graphics on it.  But if you can see the layers underneath, there is a high level of design.  I’m making current culture clothes for Tumblr kids that can mix high and low.  I’m from that generation.  They know about Raf and Balmain but they also know about the kid down the road printing their own t-shirts.  It’s Supreme and Celine.  That juxtaposition is what Off-White is based upon – it’s being a young designer who is in tune with reality as well as being able to extract reality and create an artistic statement.”

Bringing streetwear into fashion territory:

It becomes tricky when you try and define what Abloh and the likes of Oliver and Burlon are doing but Abloh is adamant that he wants to do is to push a multi-layered and faceted notion of streetwear.  Which to hardcore streetwear enthusiasts might seem ludicrous because to them, it is already at the highest level it can be.  But from a fashion aesthetic perspective, stripping back the attachment of an attitude or lifestyle, streetwear is often reduced to a visual 2D flat planed graphic t-shirt.   

“Within fashion, the idea of streetwear is still up for debate of whether it’s credible because it’s generally one-note,” said Abloh.  “I want to still be within streetwear but not be one-note, to have layers of reason and concept.  I want it upgraded on every level from concept to make.  As a designer, you don’t pore over just the ‘look of it’ but the fit and the quality.”

And hey, a dedicated womenswear line:

When I poked around Selfridges earlier this year, I touched up Off-White’s inaugural collection and was definitely taken aback by the “upgrade” in quality and also in stylistic detailing in comparison to say Abloh’s previous Pyrex line (which was basically a line of printed t-shirts and tops).  The debut womenswear for AW14 is similarly souped-up.  Entitled “I only smoke when I drink” , [it] is again full of contrasts and yes, juxtapositions.  “Chic, plus Air Force 1′s” is how Abloh summed it up to Style.com. […] Abloh is not keen on just trussing up women in Off-White’s menswear that has been sized down.  “It isn’t a girl dressing as a guy,” said Abloh.  “It’s steeped in the same water but not the same thing.” 

The Rules of Social Media (According to Teenage Girls)

1. Have lots of followers.

2. Have more followers than people you follow.

3. But don’t look like you’re trying to get followers by hashtagging too much, etc.

4. Don’t serial post. (“You only want to post one Instagram a day.”)

5. If you do post multiple things per day, they’d better be amazing. (“You can post multiple tweets a day, but they can’t be stupid or not interesting.”)

6. If you game the system, don’t get caught. (“She [my friend] probably has 20 fake accounts where she goes and likes her own pictures.”)

7. Remove photos that don’t get enough likes.

8. Be witty. (“Cute and clever captions are important. People judge you if they’re weird.”)

9. Time your posts for optimal like-getting. (“There’s a lot of social pressure to get likes, so you have to post it at the right time of day. You don’t want to post it during school when people don’t have their phone.”)

10. Facebook is for photos that weren’t good enough for Instagram.

*

Source: focus group of 12 girls aged 13-24 conducted for WeHeartIt.com.

Published in Time magazine by Katy Steinmetz, "Teen Girls Describe the Harsh Unspoken Rules of Online Popularity"

*

The article and press release focus on the pressures that teenage girls feel while using social media - bullying, trying to fit in, and the pressure to be perfect.

But I think it’s also interesting to understand how teenage girls imagine their social worlds and how they understand their social lives being influenced by the context of the technologies they use. What heuristics do they create to make this managable and understandable? Well, these.

And, well - I’m 5-10 years older than the girls focus-grouped, but these are pretty much my rules of social media too. Not just personally. They’re rules I’d tell clients - timing matters, visual quality is crucial for Instagram content, and don’t use hashtags #like #an #amateur.

So you see it’s not (solely) teenage girls and their social pressures driving this pursuit of followers and likes, but something built into the architecture of our social networks themselves. They’re what these platforms give us to work with - they’re fairly thin platforms for interaction, allowing a limited range of gestures. But we’re able to inscribe these tiniest of signals - not just likes, but ratios, timings, frequencies - to stand for broader social norms nonetheless:

It’s important for people to like you.
You should pretend that this is effortless: ‘trying too hard’ exposes us all, and is thefore taboo.
Appear humble - tall poppies get cut down.
Humour is the most socially acceptable way to stand out.

We’re such herd animals.

If there is a testosterone black market, it’s because testosterone is socially and politically confiscated and because the hormone management is completely asymmetrical. It’s as if testosterone were a political drug and because masculinity and heterosexual virility are socially an up-and-coming value. Imagine the social and political consequences if we think that any girl from the suburbs could say, “Your monopoly is over.”

Beto Preciado, author of Testo Junkie (2008), interviewed in Vice.

Via Jesse from bravenewwhatever

Hello

My new fashion blog: street-goth:

So I’m Jay, I’m 28, and I’m from London.

This is my image blog.

What am I doing here?

I’ve been blogging on hautepop.tumblr.com for several years, covering technology, culture, and social media. I wrote about the New Aesthetic and fashion for Business of Fashion, back when that was a thing. I’ve had opinions on Google Glass. And I’ve researched Tumblr fan cultures and visual communication in a project for Tumblr earlier this year.

So, you know, I like thinking about these kind of things.

This blog is where I work stuff out. I like monochrome clothes, I like techwear, I like sportswear, I like high fashion. I like things I’ve not seen before, and there’s this space between streetwear and health goth riffing off Rick Owens and ideas about what’s “urban” and high-low culture and well, I go by hautepop for a reason, as in I care about that sort of thing. I grew up on the edge of the goth-industrial scene, and I’m fascinated by how that aesthetic is newly intersecting with hiphop culture.

So streetgoth.

Tumblr fashion subcultures are semiotic, they assemble meaning through the relations between things. It’s through collation, curation and juxtaposition that I’m going to work out what it is that I’m thinking, what I want, what other people are doing, what works. Genealogy - what is the history of this idea - its parents, its roots? And who gets to wear it? Streetgoth is fairly well worked out as a menswear look, but what about the rest of us?

I’ve rigged this Tumblr up to cross-post from my Pinterest board 2014 Street Goth Mono Chromo, which is where I started thinking about this look, inspired by boards from people like Samson Choi, Mariana Reyes & Mircae Turcan.

Pinterest has better image discovery, working through social network affinities rather than just keywords & tags. But Tumblr’s where all the content comes from; Tumblr’s where this belongs; Tumblr’s where things get created. 

So I’m here.

Hello.

*

(Oh and, yknow, I’m trying to grow my sources & so on, so I’ll follow anyone doing this kind of thing back.)

In the absence of “grand narratives,” what we are left with is a politics of the personal that demands an accounting of any and all personal affectations, language, comportment, and private choices. Suddenly, everything we say, everything we do, how we do or don’t fuck, is lardered with almighty political importance.

Postmodern ideas demand that we accept that there supposedly is no objective truth, and turn instead to the wisdom of experience: our unique experience, which is the only thing any of us knows for sure. And like a pointillist painting, hopefully everyone’s discrete dot adds up to a big picture. Thus comes the emphasis on managing private trauma as an important site of activism.